The Local Approach, Applied to Seafood A Review of the Whelk, in Westport

RATING: DON’T MISS

ONLY a gutsy and independent chef would name a restaurant after a mollusk better known in Europe than here, as Bill Taibe has done with his new place, the Whelk in Westport. But, as he said in a telephone interview, “I enjoy sharing my knowledge about food with others.” Calling the new place Le Mer, as a bookend to his other Westport restaurant, Le Farm, would have been, in his words, “too obvious, like hanging lifesavers or anchors on the walls.”